THE NANCY BRACELET 

By Helen O’Donnell

This bracelet was inspired by the Whiting & Davis mesh bags and jewelry that my grandmother Nancy used in years gone by. We begin by constructing a mesh center panel of eight-bead right-angle weave and then embellish to create an easy-to-wear bracelet with texture and a tiny bit of a ruffle along the edge.

Materials:

• Mini Duos (62-66 beads)
• 3mm Czech druk beads (60-64 beads)
• 3mm Czech fire polish round beads (60-64 beads)
• 11/0 Toho seed beads (2 gram approx.)
• 8/0 Toho seed beads (1 gram approx.)
• 1 toggle clasp
• 4# or 6# Fireline
• Size 12 beading needle

©2020 Helen O'Donnell, All rights reserved. Distributed by Nirvana Beads. This project may be distributed and taught by customers of Nirvana Beads. This document may not be altered in any way without first obtaining written approval from Hellen O'Donnell.

INSTRUCTIONS

Thread a size 12 beading needle with a comfortable length of Fireline.

Step 1: Pick up 8 11/0 seed beads. Take your needle back through the beads in the same direction, leaving a six inch tail and forming the beads into a circle. See Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. Needle around until your tail is opposite your working thread.

Step 2: Pick up 6 11/0 seed beads. Needle back through the last two beads you exited in the previous step. Needle through the next two seed beads you just added. Flip your work, and repeat these right-angle steps until you have a length that is just shy of your wrist circumference. The clasp will add length, and the embellishments will shrink the length a bit. See Fig 3-5.

Step 3: After needling across 4 11/0 seed beads, as if you were ready to add another RAW unit, now needle through 2 more 11/0 seed beads along the side of the RAW unit you are currently working on. Now pick up 1 Mini Duo (MD) and needle through the next 2 11/0 seed beads in the next RAW unit. Continue adding 2 MDs between each set of RAW units until you reach the end of the bracelet. Now needle across the six beads in the final RAW unit and continue to add 1 MD between each set of RAW units on the second side. See Fig 6 below.

Step 4: After adding the final MD to the second side of the bracelet, needle through five 11/0 seed beads to exit 1 seed bead away from the first MD on the opposite side. Now pick up 2 11/0 seed beads and needle through the top of the first MD. See Fig 7 below

Step 5: Now pick up 1 8/0 seed bead and needle through the top of the next MD. Continue across edge of bracelet, placing 1 8/0 seed bead between each pair of MDs on this side. See Fig 8 below. NOTE: DO NOT PULL TIGHT. You will see thread showing, but you need looseness to make room for beads on the next row.

Step 6: When you have added the final 8/0 seed bead on this edge of the bracelet, and exiting the top of the final MD, pick up 2 11/0 seed beads. Skip the 11/0 seed bead next to the MD in the row below and needle through the remaining beads along this edge and along the top. Needle also through to exit the 11/0 seed bead one bead away from the first MD on the opposite edge of your bracelet, as you did in the previous step. Pick up two 11/0 seed beads, needle through the top of the first MD, and repeat adding 1 11/0 seed bead along this edge of the bracelet. Repeat adding 2 11/0 seed beads at the end of this edge. See Fig 9 and 10.

Step 7:  Pick up 3 11/0 seed beads, skip the first 8/0 seed bead and needle through the second MD. Continue to add 3 11/0 seed beads atop each 8/0 seed bead along this edge. Then needle across the end beads and continue along the second side. See Fig 11 and Fig 12. Needle through the first MD and two 11/0 seed beads to exit the middle 11/0 of the 3 bead cluster.

Step 8: Pick up 1 3mm druk and needle through the middle 11/0 seed bead in the next grouping. Continue adding 1 3mm druk between each grouping of 3 11/0 seed beads until you reach the end of the edge. Needle across all beads along the end of the bracelet, the first MD and the first 2 11/0 seed beads, exiting the middle of the three. Now add 1 3mm druk between each set of 3 11/0 seed beads as you did along the previous edge. See Fig 13.

Step 9:  At the end of the row, needle across the end beads and repeat on the opposite edge. See Fig 14. Then needle through the end beads, the two seed beads, and the first druk, as shown

Step 10:  Pick up 3 11/0 seed beads and needle through the next druk. Continue adding 3 11/0 seed beads between each pair of druks on both edges of bracelet as you did in Step 7. See Fig 15

Step 11: Exit the middle of the first grouping of 3  11/0 seed beads. Pick up and stitch a 3mm fire polish bead into the middle 11/0 seed bead in the next grouping. Continue adding 1 3mm fire polish between eac.h pair of  3 11/0 bead groupings until you reach the end. Needle across and repeat on the opposite side. See Fig 16.

FINISH: Weave in all your ends securely, moving in different directions so that your thread doesn’t work its way out.

Using a separate thread, attach one half of a toggle clasp to one end of the bracelet by exiting between the fourth and fifth seed beads in the group of eight along the edge. To avoid having to go back through the beads again, take your needle around the thread bridge between the seed beads. Reinforce your toggle by stitching up and down several times. Secure your thread and weave in.

TIPS AND HINTS:

1. Keep a loose tension when adding the 8/0 seed beads.
2. Keep a tight tension when constructing the RAW center column.
3. Keep a tighter tension when adding the MDs.
4. Use a size 12 needle so that you can needle through the end beads easily. If you find it difficult to go through the end beads many times, reverse directions by taking your needle around a thread bridge at the end of the bracelet and working one side at a time. This is a good way to go for more advanced bead-weavers. Otherwise, using a thin needle and thin Fireline will allow you to be able to work your thread through the end beads several times.

About Helen O'Donnell: 

While visiting Greece in 1999, Helen fell in love with the earthy ceramic beads and pendants made by a local artist in Athens. Once stateside, she corresponded with the artist via snail mail and asked to be her representative in the United States.

The die was cast, and Helen’s small on-line business, Embroidered Soul, was born. The website soon grew as Helen sought out beads to coordinate with the ceramic pendants, including a wide variety of Czech glass. Time and circumstance would eventually take her to Ohio, where she came to know the owner of Gahanna Bead Studio. When Susan needed someone to take over management of her shop, Helen was eager to accept the offer. Several years ago, she bought out her partner and now owns the shop lock, stock, barrel, and bead.

Helen’s interests include bead-weaving design, making ceramic beads and pendants, creating botanical cabochons with foraged flowers and weeds, and stringing with interesting beads. She loves the history of the products she works with and feels that it is her duty to “honor” the beads by showcasing them in the best possible light. Though bead-weaving design presents the biggest challenge for her, stringing still fulfills her desire for something bohemian or earthy that reflects her personal style.

Helen lives in Westerville, Ohio, with her husband of 30+ years on five acres and a big farm pond which she occasionally likes to tube on.